Once upon a time, Harlem in New York was notorious for being an unsafe place to visit, a place that was rife with crime and where taxis refused to go. Nowadays however, Harlem is a different place, and if you’re on a trip to New York, somewhere you need to go. You still have to be careful – watch out for pickpockets and don’t walk through the parks at night etc. – but just as careful as you always should be when visiting an unfamiliar big city.
The Harlem Renaissance happened in the 1920s and 30s, which is when the value of African American music, literature and political figures was recognised by the wider community. The Savoy Ballroom, for example, was a Harlem institution. It was where young people came to dance to swing music during the 1930s, specifically young black people (although not exclusively) who were not allowed in white-only ballrooms. Clark Gable is said to have visited the Savoy one night and famous poet Langston Hughes was a regular.
Unfortunately the Savoy was shut down and demolished, but today there are places still standing that were central to the Harlem Renaissance movement, such as the Apollo Theatre.
The Apollo was a popular music hall in the 1930s. It became the largest employer of black theatrical workers in America and was the only place in New York to hire black people to work backstage (source: apollotheater.org). Billie Holiday, Ella Fitzgerald and Lena Horne performed at the Apollo, making the theatre a mecca for jazz lovers. It’s still a working theatre today.
Another historical monument to visit in Harlem is the Church of the Intercession. It was built by famous architect Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue in 1915, although the church’s history goes back even further as it was founded on another site in 1846. Today if you attend a service at the church you’ll hear the church’s gospel choir.
Harlem has always been known as a centre for gospel and jazz – the National Jazz Museum in Harlem is well worth a visit if you’re an avid music fan. It’s also famous for its soul food and you can find plenty of places to eat dishes like fried chicken, barbecue ribs, cornbread and okra. Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken is the soul food restaurant critics are currently raving about.
From food, to jazz and historical buildings – Harlem should be overlooked. It’s rich history and vibrancy makes it a fascinating place to visit.
