Dreams and Location Independence
When I first went to University, I had a clear goal in mind. I’d study Genetics and get into research and at some point I’d cure the world of some terrible illness. Maybe cancer, muscular dystrophy or vaccine production – anything to help. Three years in labs made me realise that I wanted to see the world and experience all that it had to offer. I didn’t want to be stuck in a lab all day, socialising with pipettes while life passed me by, I wanted more for myself. After an unsuspecting catalyst turned my life upside down, I sold everything I owned and bought a one way ticket to Asia.
This was in November 2010 and since then I’ve been floating around without a clear goal in mind, other than to travel, take photos and see more of the world. I’m not saying this isn’t a worthy goal, because it’s brought some of the best experiences of my life. But the whole time I was exploring I could feel a ping under my chest, that same ping I’d felt in University: I want more for myself. At this point in time I can say without a doubt I do not want a typical 9 to 5 job. There’s a part of me that wants the (perceived) prestige of pursuing something academic like intellectual property law or genetics, but I’m not interested in working away my youth only to start living my dream after retirement.
So, how does someone who loves travel and photography with a degree in the Sciences find a way to avoid the cages of the 9-5? Location independence. At the moment I’ve made all of $0 online, but I’ve been reading a lot on location independence, freelancing, affiliate marketing, building a successful blog and creating niche websites. My goal is to, by the end of August of this year, have some income coming from online ventures – this will get me a step closer to my long term goals of being location independent. If you’d like to follow me on this journey and hold me accountable for my deadline, find me on Facebook andTwitter
Is this something that you’d be interested in too? Read my favourite location independent websites here: Nerdy Nomad, Woman Seeks World and Smart Passive Income. If you’re working towards a location independent lifestyle, I’d love to hear more about it.
Just a brief note on packing and leaving – after 1.5 years of travel some things are exactly the same. Packing and goodbyes are still painful. Leaving doesn’t get any easier, you just get better at trusting in yourself.
Postcards from Borobudur
I didn’t even know about Borobudur until I met a lovely lady on a bus traveling from Bali to Yogyakarta. She said her and a friend were going to see it and invited me to come. I almost declined, because I still felt “templed out” from my previous trip around Asia, even though it was over 6 months ago. Curiosity got the better of me and we set off to see this Hindu temple at 6am. We arrived just before it opened and were surprised to see that there were so few tourists around. As the sun sleepily traced its way higher in the sky, we walked through the beautiful grounds to see Borobudur’s temple in all it’s glory. The entire time we were walking around, there were only a handful of other tourists. As we turned the corners, it felt as if we’d been given this striking temple to explore all on our own.
I like to say that Borobudur is “my Angkor Wat”. I know it’s not good to compare places, but I can still appreciate their own merits. While Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples are incredible, it’s hard to enjoy it entirely when there are hoards of tourists, there’s rarely an opportunity to take a photo without a bunch of random people ending up in the frame. I personally enjoyed the different style of carving at Borobudur – it seems a lot deeper and you can see the Hindu influence. The temple dates back to the 9th century and was covered in volcanic ash and vegetation for hundreds of years. In 1814 it was rediscovered and underwent massive restoration. This might just be my favourite temple in the whole world, if you are traveling around Java, make the journey to visit it and spend a while in Yogyakarta soaking up Java’s artistic hub.
Want more postcard goodness? See my postcards from Gili T
Essentials For a Trip To Asia
I’m probably the worst traveler in the world in terms of organisation, but this means I’m in a pretty good position to advise you of what’s essential – because if I consider it essential, chances are you will too. Since I first went traveling I’ve been messaged by lots of my friends asking what they need to take along on their trip. Some of them are the “planners” and they spend the weeks leading up to their trip in a cloud of anxiety, worrying that they’ll forget something and their trip will be ruined. You’ll be able to find most of what you need in Asia, so don’t stress too much but at least consider all of these things before you go.
Without further ado, here’s my travel checklist. If you have these things covered I’m sure your trip will run smoothly enough.
A Healthy Traveler Is A Happy Traveler
Make sure that you have the appropriate vaccinations for your trip. I would advise seeing a doctor who specialises in travel medicine four to six weeks before you intend to depart. For South East Asia I was given a tetanus shot and a combined Hep A & B vaccination. I decided not to get the rabies vaccination because it was expensive, I hadn’t budgeted enough time for the course of vaccinations and if you are bitten by a stray animal you still have to get injections after the fact. This is a personal decision and you should talk to your doctor about whether you think it’s the best option for you. In New Zealand the injections I got were fairly expensive, running at a few hundred dollars including the consultation. You’ll need to factor this into your travel budget from the beginning.
Malaria Is Deadly
If you are traveling outside of the main developed cities, then you will probably need to consider anti malaria treatment. I personally chose to minimize my chance of infection in two ways. The first step was literally covering myself in deet (or an appropriate mosquito repellant) all the time. I added it to my daily routine – after brushing my teeth I’d smother myself and I’d always carry it around with me during the day. After traveling for a few months I got pretty fed up with spraying on repellent so I bought some repellant wipes that were a nice change to use. Don’t skimp out on this one, a leg smothered with 40 mosquito bites does not look good and it’s potentially dangerous, too.
The second avenue I took was an anti malaria pill – I chose Doxycycline mostly because of money, the other popular alternative Malarone is 5- 10 times the cost. There are pros and cons to both of these and I am by no means an expert, so I suggest that you research the specifics of these yourself, or talk to your travel doctor. I ended up extending my travels for much longer than I had originally planned and found it very easy to find Doxycycline in Asia and it was 1/10th of the price I paid in New Zealand. I would suggest taking a small supply from home and buying more from a reputable pharmacy such as Boots in Thailand. I suffered from a number of side effects from Doxy that were not desirable and eventually I chose to discontinue taking them. This was a very personal decision, but it is not so uncommon among long term travelers. If you would like to know more information about this decision, feel free to post a comment here and I’d be happy to answer.
Emergency Kit
I would also suggest that you take some kind of emergency kit with you. Chances are you’re going to get food poisoning at some stage during your travels and when it happens you want to be able to minimize the discomfort. I had a variety of pills that I bought in a food poisoning kit from my travel doctor – one that was the biggest saving grace was something called a “stopper” – I’m not sure of the specific medication in it, but basically it stopped the physical symptoms of food poisoning long enough for me to endure a 33 hour bus ride. Things like bandaids, paracetamol etc are all fairly easy to pick up overseas, but there’s no harm in bringing some with you.
For The Ladies
I would suggest that you bring a supply of sanitary products with you – while you can find them in most parts of Asia, they’re a lot more expensive than I was used to paying back home. Tampons are a bit rarer, but again you can find them in big cities like Bangkok. If you are taking antibiotics (such as Doxycycline) you are more likely to get thrush, so you should purchase some medication to combat this, just in case. Be mindful that if you’re taking oral contraception any use of antibiotics can impair the pills ability to prevent pregnancy.
Pack Light Then Pack Lighter
If I could do my first trip to Asia all over again I would take only the clothes on my back. If you venture out past the main cities, there are parts of Asia that are pretty dirty and any nice clothes you have are going to be all but destroyed. If you are of small to average western size you should have no problem finding clothes in Asia. You can literally pick up singlets for $1-2. Take a few basics but be prepared to buy as you need along the way. Don’t bother taking anything white there, as when you return it will be a muggy shade of gray that even the strongest washing detergent cannot mute. Buy over there and donate the clothes you don’t want to take home.
My one essential packing tip? Ziplock bags. I am crazy about them and I don’t really understand how people travel without them. I also have a slight irrational fear of airport security opening up my backpack and underwear flying everywhere. So, I roll up my clothes into ziplock bags and then I pack them into my backpack. Shoes fit into ziplock bags. Electrical cords fit into ziplock bags. Everything fits into ziplock bags. You can reuse them over and over. I usually pack outfits together in the bags, so that it’s easy to find something to wear. I will keep all my dirty clothes together in specific ziplock bags which keeps my clean clothes super clean. It also allows you to fit a lot more stuff into your backpack and so long as you maintain your bags, it makes repacking a breeze – trust me on this one.
You Need a Good Backpack
I don’t think Asia is an appropriate place for suitcase traveling. Unless you plan to spend a very long time in each place, it will become frustrating and hinder your travels. There are three things I would suggest that anyone looks for in a backpack:
Waterproof cover – this is great for when it rains, but I use it most of the time. It doubles as a protection against wandering hands and makes me feel a little more secure about my bag being checked luggage. Most good backpacks should have one already in the backpack, but double check.
Zips all the way around – Maybe your preference is a hiking style bag, with only a zipper around the very top. But every time I’ve seen someone struggle to find something at the bottom of their bag while simultaneously throwing everything out, I’ve thanked myself for choosing a bag that zips all the way around. It’s just easier to deal with. On that note make sure your backpack has two zips so that you can lock them together if you want added security.
A day bag – You should try to find a backpack that has a detachable day bag. They are so useful and it’s great being able to leave your big bag in storage while you do a trek with only your small pack. I find it to be a lot more comfortable connecting the day bag to my main pack, rather than walking around with a small backpack on my front – plus it looks less ridiculous, bonus!
Bring Some Photos / Postcards From Home
You’re going to meet people and they’re going to want to know more about your world. This is especially true for locals who might not ever be able to venture to your country. Bring photos of your family and your country. If you’re from somewhere that snows bring photos of that too. Many people I met along the way would always ask me whether it snows in New Zealand as it’s one of their dreams to see snow. Postcards from home are something nice that you can leave with locals that have left an impression on you, they’ll really treasure them.
Learn Some Local Lingo
You don’t need to stress yourself out learning seeming useless phrases such as “Do you speak English?” because if they do, you could just ask in English 😉 but if you want to learn some local lingo I suggest you should learn the basics: Hello, please, thank you, yes, no, how much, help and my personal favourite “expensive” or “so expensive”. When I was in Kuala Lumpur I was traveling with two guys and we went to a market to look at wallets. The guy quoted us a price and my response was “so mahal!” (so expensive) and he was very impressed and immediately lowered the price substantially. Anything above this you can learn, but these as the absolute essentials in my opinion.
Other Misc Things
Travel Insurance – I’ve had a number of things go wrong on my travels – There was a disaster in my home city and I was flown home from India, I was attacked in Indonesia and required 8 stitches, my camera was broken, my laptop screen was shattered, I had really bad food poisoning that required medical treatment and so on… thankfully my travel insurance covered all of those things. Get it and make sure you read up on it. My travel insurance doesn’t cover me for any alcohol (or drug) related injuries… hmm.
Camera – Photography is part of the reason I travel, so I wouldn’t be able to survive without mine.
A travel towel – smaller, lighter and faster to dry than a normal towel. Hard to find in Asia, buy at home.
Wet wipes – I use these for everything, from emergency toilet paper to an emergency shower. They’re also a godsend for cleaning your hands before you eat if you’re a little dirty. Cheap in big cities in Asia.
A small torch – you’ll likely end up in some situations where there’s no lights, so you’ll need a torch. Easy to find in Asia.
Photocopies of my documents – I scanned my passport, emailed it to myself and printed it out, just in case I lose mine and need a replacement.
Adapters – I usually just pick them up in the country I’m visiting for a few dollars each.
If you consider everything mentioned here, you should be well prepared to backpack around Asia. Don’t forget your passport – it has to be valid for at least six months. You will need to check what visas you require for the individual countries you intend to visit.
Check out the eight things you really shouldn’t do in Asia.
Postcards from Yogyakarta
I hadn’t planned on going to Yogyakarta, but needed a stop from Ubud on the way to Jakarta. A friend had suggested I might like it, but when I first arrived and saw a bland concrete jungle I wasn’t impressed. After taking some time to wander the streets, I began to discover Yogyakarta’s charm – the hustle and bustle of everyday life that seems to have art leaking out of the cracks. There’s amazing graffiti that makes you feel like you’re in Berlin rather than Indonesia. Yogyakarta is renowned for it’s beautiful Batik painting style and it was really fascinating seeing how they hand make them. I was only there a few days and spent one of those at Borobudur, but I felt like I could have easily spent weeks longer there discovering something new.
See my other postcards from: Gili T
There’s No Place Like Home
I spent this weekend in Bratislava – it wasn’t never high on my list of places to travel, but I live pretty close to Slovakia, so I figured I might as well. It was interesting to see the contrast between Slovaks and Czechs – in terms of both language and people. While the city itself was nice enough, as I wandered around I felt if it was lacking something. There were certain streets, while baring no resemblance at all to my home town of Christchurch, that made me miss home – the home that was before the earthquake. Hearing the light and melodic Slovak spoken around me made me crave the sound of the distinct New Zealand accent. As sunset wrapped around Bratislava’s Hrad (castle), my stomach knotted and I realised that this isn’t my home. Europe is comfortable and charming, but so far I’ve not visited anywhere that rivals the beauty and splendor of NZ.
During my brief visit, I met some wonderful people and we had those conversations that etch their way into your deepest place. When asked where I plan to settle down, I couldn’t find a certain answer. In fact, I don’t have any eligible places in mind. That might be one of the subconscious driving forces of my travels; the desire to find somewhere that suits me. And maybe that’s the entire reason I travel: because I’m not drawn enough to one place to really commit to it and invest into it – yet.
We made a short trip to visit Devin’s castle and I stood at the top of the medieval ruins, looking out to the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers, a big part of me wished I was looking out to the Waimakariri. Snowflakes lingered in the breeze while I realised for the first time, on this trip, that I’m aching for New Zealand. This time next week I’ll be somewhere in London, on the edge of another amazing adventure. In twenty six days I’ll have my feet firmly planted back on New Zealand’s soil. While I’m really excited to be going home again, I’m looking forward to leaving, too: when something is fleeting you clutch onto it and treasure it more than you might otherwise have.
I haven’t been in an English speaking country since July last year. I wonder if I’m going to suffer reverse culture shock from being able to approach anyone and have a fluent, fluid conversation with them. I also wonder if I’m the only one who constantly gets asked for directions, but only in countries that aren’t my own? Today I was asked for directions in Bratislava twice by Slovaks – What?
8 Things You Shouldn’t Do…
In Asia
8 ) Don’t quench your thirst on Singapore’s Metro while reading the rules of carriage. Because it might be a little awkward when you glance over the $500 potential fine as you simultaneously notice the two policemen staring at you. This is even more uncomfortable when you become distracted by the fact they are armed and proceed to maintain a deer in the headlights expression – with the drink bottle still in your mouth. The smile and fade into the crowd trick works better when you aren’t carrying a backpack half the size of you – or at least I’ve heard so.
7 ) If you’re a lady: don’t touch the monk. I know, it’s not fair – they are so touchable, especially when they’re adorned in orange robes. So many occasions I’ve wanted to accidentally brush past them, to see what really happens. This is one cultural sensitivity I haven’t accidentally messed up. But, it’s taken a lot of self control – constant self control. So, if I can’t touch the monk, neither can you.
6 ) Don’t get in the tuk tuk when he offers it to you at half the usual price because he’s “going that way anyway”. It is way too good to be true. Be strong; do not let your hunger cloud your sense of judgement as you will end up spending longer arguing with him to take you back to where you were, than it would have taken to walk there. His (stupid) silk shop is not going to feed you.
5 ) Don’t go tubing in Vang Vieng. Okay, you can go tubing because it’s pretty fun, but don’t be one of those tubers that are culturally insensitive. Also, please don’t be one of those tubers who judge the culturally insensitive tubers only to be baited by the exluir of doom that is Lao Lao whiskey. Because you might just find yourself wearing stupid bandanas with an assortment of swear words written on them while dancing like you’re leading a Hare Krishna movement . You may also end up having to excuse yourself from dinner, only to walk 30 seconds down the street where you will have to excuse yourself all over the grass. Just don’t Lao Lao, even if it’s free.
4 ) Don’t book a 36 hour bus trip from Vang Vieng to Hanoi because chances are you are going to get food poisoning right before the bus is due. Word of the day: waterfall. Also on the same note, don’t trust the ticket salesmen who assures you that there will be a working toilet on this bus – he is lying. You may have cringed when the doctor handed you some pills called “stoppers” but they are now your best friend – ingest immediately and hand out the remainders like candy to your fellow travelers who are facing the same grim existence.
3 ) Don’t buddy up too much with the Vietnamese border control just because it’s really cold and you’re sick of waiting for the border to open up. They will be a little too excited by your presence and will ask you to pose in photos with them. Which is fine, until they show you the photos only to reveal that they’ve taken zoomed in photos of your face – creepy on a good day, but absolutely horrific after enduring The Bus Ride From Hell (above).
2 ) Don’t decide to get beach maintenance in Koh Phangan, Thailand. Everything will be uncomfortable from the beginning: you will have to use sign language to demonstrate that you want a wax. Then the two excitable beauty therapists will proceed to make large circular movements around their crotch while saying “ALL GONE?” on a busy road as other tourists meander by. Things will only get progressive worse, as you are taken out back to a room that looks like it belongs on a porn set. You will be instructed to lay down on a mattress on the floor, while the lady turns on the red light (classy). The therapist will kneel right between… you… while you endure thirty minutes of repetitive torture. Meanwhile your friend will be waiting for you while getting a manicure and pedicure – enjoy!
1 ) Don’t forget to put pants on. Yeah, who would have thought this would be featuring on my list, but it’s pretty key. Especially when your bus between Thailand and Laos takes you to one of the most gorgeous temples in the world, without forewarning you. You might just find yourself walking through Wan Rong Khun temple grounds with a little Thai man running after you screaming “Radddddyyy Radddddddyyy” which is apparently Thanglish for lady. He will wrap up your wicked white legs in a long white sarong, hiding the fact you come from a country without enough sunshine. Don’t attempt to tie the sarong yourself, he’ll be pretty insistent on doing it for you as clearly you cannot dress yourself.
Is there anything you suggest that others shouldn’t do in Asia? I’d love to hear your stories!
Berlin
Before I even visited Berlin, I knew I was going to like it. It wasn’t how I imagined – the bland industrial buildings seemed to disappear into the bitter wintery chill. However, Berlin still had everything I wanted: history, street art, friendly people, great coffee and amazing nightlife. I can’t pinpoint what it is exactly, but there’s something about berlin that makes me want to linger there a while longer – I’d love to live there one day.
Costs in Berlin
Accommodation in Berlin is affordable, with shared dorm rooms in hostels starting at around €9. A private room in a hostel will set you back at least €20 – considerably more during the peak summer season. Expect to pay at least €50 euros for a room in a cheap hotel or a pension.
Food is cheap in Berlin, at least compared to Western Europe, and if you’re looking to really save money you can get by with €25-35 a week on groceries from the supermarket. A decent restaurant meal will set you back around €15-25, while fast food restaurants run at around €6-8. Berlin is a great city for both food stands and international cuisine – the perfect combination. You can get really great cheap eats from the food stands from €2.50 up – I had the most delicious donor of my life here. There’s also a bunch of tempting bakeries around where you can get strudel for around €1 – yum.
Transport in Berlin utilizes an integrated transport system, meaning that your one ticket will work on all types of public transport. The transport network is a little intimidating at first, but once you get your bearings it’s really easy to get around. You can purchase a short trip ticket for zones AB for €1.30 or a standard trip costs €2.10 – it is possible to buy a four-trip ticket for €8. If you plan to use public transport more than three times a day, then you should consider a daily (€6.10) or weekly pass (€26.20). Before you arrive, make sure you find out which line and stop your accommodation is on – Berlin’s transport system is a little too complicated to wing it (not that I tried and got lost).
Breandeburg Gate – This former city gate is perhaps one of the best known sites of all of Germany. It’s large pillars are reminiscent of something you would expect to find in Athens, Greece. Thankfully, it was spared during the World Wars and was privately renovated in 2000. Walking through the gate you are led onto a boulevard which is bustling during the day – there’s numerous shops, tourist gimmicks and some of the most talented street performers I’ve seen anywhere in the world. It’s a nice place to take a lazy stroll on a warm day.
Topography Of Terrors – Originally the site of the Secret State Police, the SS and the Reich Security Main Office it now houses an open air museum. There is a stretch of the wall left as it was during the regime, which you can walk along. The dark, bland concrete wall is a direct contrast to that of the East Side Gallery memorial. The Topography of Terrors museum is a very moving exhibition of information relating to the Nazi regime – including information on the lead up to, during and post nazi Germany. The Museum contains a lot of heavy and emotional material, so take your time to walk around and absorb it all. It’s free to enter, and can get a little busy so I would advise going earlier in the morning if possible.
Holocaust Memorial – This is one of the most visually impressive memorials I’ve ever been to. It’s officially called “Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe” and is a series of 2,711 concrete blocks arranged in a vary unusual way. The blocks are of varying height, while the ground slopes under it – the purpose of this arrangement is to create an uneasy and confusing atmosphere. This is not something that can be merely viewed from the outside, it is important to walk between the slabs. If time permits, it is worth coming here at night too – the dim lights cast shadows around the blocks which creates a whole new experience. There is a museum below which is free to enter and worth a visit – there are security checks which can slow down things, but usually no more than a ten minute wait.
Alexanderplatz and the TV tower – Alexanderplatz is Berlin’s most famous square and really comes to life during the Christmas season. There’s a bunch of shopping malls and a train station here, so it’s a good hub that you’ll probably visit anyway. The Fernsehturm TV tower is a landmark visible from anywhere in Berlin which makes it an excellent bearing for exploring Berlin. You can visit the observation deck of the tower to see 360 degree views of Berlin – costs €11 for an adult and is open until midnight.
Reichstag – Formally the Parliament building during the German Empire, this building is very impressive. It was thankfully spared during the wars and provides a visual omen to the grand scope of the German rule. The dome is an unusual feature of the building and makes for a great view point of Berlin city. Tours through the building are free, however you must book in advance, see the website here for more information. Be prepared for security screening measures on par with airport screening.
East Side Gallery – This is one of the reasons I was most interested in visiting Berlin and it certainly didn’t disappoint. It’s a remaining part of the Berlin wall that stretches 1.3km. In the 1990s artists were commissioned to decorate the wall and it’s covered in beautiful, inspiring murals. It’s the largest outdoor art gallery in the world. Unfortunately, some graffiti has clouded up some of the pieces, but it’s still a great place to visit.
Tigergarten – A huge park that stretches through the centre of Berlin – it’s such a nice escape from the dreary buildings surrounding it. There’s long benches that you can sit on while soaking up some sunshine. It’s a very popular place for running and there is a running route at the main gate which you can use as a walking guide. If you exit the park by the Spanish Embassy, you can walk up towards Charlottenburg by the Zoological garden. This path takes you through the length of the zoo – which allows you to see the animals through the wire fence, for free. There’s also a beer garden here, where you can relax by the water.
Postcards from Gili Trawangan
People tend to get lost on Gili Trawangan, they come for a few days and stay a lot longer than planned. It’s a small island located near Bali in Indonesia. You can bike around it in an hour or so (it takes longer if your tyre pops and you have to walk through the undeveloped middle of the island). It’s one of the most beautiful places in the world to snorkel, dive, and relax on the beach. When I think of paradise, Gili Trawangan comes to mind. I know I’ll be back there someday.
Where in the world is your favourite island?
Leaving + Travel Plans
A year ago I’d never even heard of Počátky, a small town in the highlands of the Czech Republic. For the past six months I’ve called this little village home. The one thing I’ve learned is: when you’re open to travel and to doing exactly what you want to do, life gets a little unpredictable. I have no idea where I’ll be in a year from today and I’m becoming okay with that.
2011 was a rough year for me, with the devastating earthquake in my home town and being stabbed in rural Indonesia, so Počátky has been the perfect place to deal with my emotions and find my feet again. I’m going to be sad to say goodbye, but I’m ready for some new adventures.
In two weeks I’ll be in London finally seeing what all the fuss is about.
Then I’ll be popping into LA to meet up with a best friend and heading Coachella where I’ll be staying in a Los Angeles vacation rental. If time allows I’ll shimmy to Mexico – the allure of cheap Tequila and actual Mexican food is too strong.
At the end of April I’ll be heading to New Zealand for my first holiday at “home” – I left in July so I’m very excited about seeing all my friends and family. I might be a little (read: very) biased, but I think New Zealand is one of the most gorgeous countries in the world, so I’m excited to be exploring it after so much time away.
Hong Kong was the first foreign city I ever visited, but it was a twenty four hour stop over so I never even brushed the surface. This time around I have five days to explore the sites and sounds of the city that first ignited the wanderlust flame.
If you have any suggestions of things I must do in the countries I’m visiting, I’d love to hear them!
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Schengen Visa Overstay Info
Before I even arrived in Europe I was confused by the Schengen Zone and found that visa information was not very clear – it’ s really hard to figure out what will determine a Schengen Visa Overstay. It wasn’t until a few weeks into my trip that I realised I had a ninety day cap on my time for all the countries in the Schengen Zone (this was slightly complicated by the fact I’m a New Zealander). The plenties for overstaying in the Schengen Zone can vary from a proverbial slap on the wrist to being banned from the region for a few years – neither are particularly tempting, so it’s a good idea that you understand where you stand before you arrive.
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What is The Schengen Zone?
Don’t mistake the EU for being the Schengen Area – although there are a number of overlaps, they are two different things. At present there are 26 countries in the Schengen Zone including France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Poland, Spain and Greece. If you’re interested in the full list of Schengen members, you can find the current list here. Where travel is concerned, these countries are essentially one giant country. The benefit of this means that there are no borders and you can travel freely between each. However, on a recent trip to Berlin from Prague the bus I was traveling on was pulled aside and everyone’s passports were checked by intimidating German Police (December 2011) – this is the exception though.
What Does This Mean For Travel in The Schengen Zone?
It means that your time within the Schengen Zone will be counted for all of the countries within it, making it very easy to accidentally have a Schengen visa overstay. If you are a citizen from one of the countries that have a visa free agreement with the Schengen Zone (current list here) then you will be entitled to travel throughout this area, without visa, for a total of ninety days within every 180 days. The only exception to this is New Zealand nationals which will be discussed further below.
This is where it gets a little confusing. Let’s say, for example, that you have a trip around Europe planned. You want to visit France and Spain for a total of two months, then you’re going to spend two weeks in England (not Schengen) before you plan to spend six weeks in Greece. You can’t do this without a visa, because you will be overstaying the 90/180 day limit. If you spend ninety days traveling around the Schengen region and then fly to Turkey you’ll have to wait ninety days before you can reenter the Schengen Zone.
New Zealand citizens are lucky, they are entitled to travel visa free for a total of 90 days out of 180 in each of seventeen Schengen countries provided that they don’t cross into a country not included on this list. This is due to bilateral visa waiver agreements that were signed before the individual countries joined the Schengen region. This means, in theory, New Zealand citizens could travel around these 17 countries for a total of just over four years before they would require a visa, making it much easier for New Zealanders to avoid a Schengen visa overstay. However, because your passport is rarely stamped when you exit a country within Schengen it’s important that you keep some informal evidence of your movement incase this is an issue at the border when you eventually do leave.
How Can I Stay Longer?
You’ll need to apply for a visa – this can be done at an embassy outside the Schengen Area in advance. As I decided to stay within the Czech Republic for longer than the allowed three months, I filed for a Working Holiday Visa – allowing me a year within the Czech Republic and free movement around the Schengen area too. I applied for my visa so that it would start when my ninety days from my visa free entry would lapse – providing me with a total of approximately 15 months within the Schengen Area. I traveled to Berlin, Germany in order to apply for it and again to collect it. It is a best idea to apply for a visa for the country you intend to start your trip in or the country you plan to spend the most time in. Contact a relevant embassy for more information on your particular circumstance.
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What Happens If I Overstay My Schengen Visa?
This is really at the discretion of the customs officer inspecting your passport. You could slip by without so much as a warning, or you could receive a substantial fine and even be banned from the Schengen Zone for a number of years. If you don’t fancy being banned (from one year ban right up to a life ban), or paying in excess of 700 Euros, then it’s best to apply for a longer visa so that you can avoid a Schengen visa overstay. Do NOT leave your visa application until after you are already an overstayer – this will not go down well. It is very likely that your passport and stay length will be checked when you depart from the Schengen area but there are also incidental checks, such as if you are stopped by a police officer or involved in a car crash. You may slip through without warning or care, but you could be pulled aside when you return into the Schengen Zone next. Because the Schengen Zone encompasses such a large area and number of countries, finding yourself unable to reenter will certainly dampen any future travel plans.
Visa Options for Non-EU Travelers to the Schengen Zone
If you’re a non-EU individual planning an extended stay in the Schengen Area, here are some common visa routes:
- Schengen Tourist Visa (Type C): This short-term visa allows stays up to 90 days within a 180-day period for tourism, business, or family visits.
- National Long-Stay Visa (Type D): Ideal for individuals planning to study, work, or reside in a specific Schengen country for more than 90 days. Each country has its specific requirements and permits, such as student visas, work permits, or retirement visas.
- Golden Visas: Some Schengen countries like Portugal, Spain, and Greece offer permits in exchange for investment, often involving real estate or business. These visas eventually provide access to free movement within the Schengen Area.
Recent changes to the Golden Visa programs in Portugal, Spain, and Greece reflect evolving policies aimed at addressing concerns about housing affordability and investment regulations.
- Portugal: Portugal’s Golden Visa program remains one of the most attractive options for investors. As of now, it continues to offer residency through various investment routes, including:
- Real Estate: No longer an option. It used to be a minimum investment of €500,000
- Portugal Golden Visa Investment route: minimum €500,000 in qualifying venture capital funds (source)
- Business Investment: €500,000 in an existing business or creating a new one that generates jobs.
- Cultural Donations: €250,000 for arts or national heritage projects.
The program allows investors and their families to apply for permanent residency after five years and citizenship thereafter, provided they meet language and cultural knowledge requirements. There have been no significant recent changes reported for Portugal’s Golden Visa program.
- Spain: Spain has announced significant changes to its Golden Visa program. Starting April 8, 2024, the country plans to end the Golden Visa for real estate investments due to rising housing prices and concerns over money laundering. Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez emphasized that the program has contributed to making housing a speculative business rather than a right. Current options for obtaining a Spanish Golden Visa include:
- Real Estate: Minimum investment of €500,000.
- Bank Deposits: At least €1 million in Spanish banks.
- Government Bonds: Minimum investment of €2 million.
Investors can apply for permanent residency after two years and citizenship after ten years under existing rules before the program’s changes take effect.
- Greece: Greece’s Golden Visa program continues to attract non-EU investors with its relatively low entry point. The current minimum investment options include:
- Real Estate: Starting at €250,000 (or €500,000 in high-demand areas).
- Government Bonds or Bank Deposits: Minimum of €400,000.
The Greek government has recently indicated intentions to review the program to ensure it aligns with economic needs and housing availability. Investors can apply for permanent residency after five years and potentially citizenship thereafter.
These changes reflect a broader trend across Europe as countries reassess their immigration policies in response to economic pressures and social concerns regarding housing accessibility.
- Family Reunification Visa: If you have a family member legally residing in a Schengen country, you may apply for a family reunification visa, allowing you to join them for an extended period.
Choosing the right visa route depends on your intentions and duration of stay. Be sure to check the specific requirements for each type, as they vary from one Schengen country to another.
Have you ever dealt with a Schengen Visa Overstay? Let us know what happened in the comments below: