What I Want
I decided it was time to sit down and articulate what I want from life.
First of all, I want to wake up in locations like this more often.
Secondly, I want to follow my dreams.
When I went back to New Zealand I got wound up in emotions, met someone who took me by surprise and it was all wonderful. But after leaving, while I realised that particular person was special and someone I could see myself being with, I realised that I wouldn’t get to do it on my terms.
Compromise is a fact of life, but not really something I’m particularly interested in at this stage. Maybe it’s being selfish, maybe it’s being silly, but I just have so many things I want to do in life and I can’t imagine someone else fitting perfectly into the picture.
I am FOREVER ALONE.
At least for now.
In the past few weeks I started freelance writing and am now earning enough to travel contiously. I don’t know how long it will last, but I’m really enjoying it for now and have a few ongoing jobs that I think would cover me for a long time…
So that found me in an interesting position – I have one-way flight back to New Zealand at a time I probably wouldn’t have chosen if I was the only factor. I contemplated canceling it, postponing it, staying on in Istanbul and volunteering and pushing this freelance writing for all that its worth, but then I remembered an important quote that I like to keep fresh on my mind, always:
There is time for everything
At least everything you want to make time for. So, I can go back to Istanbul later and do that if I want to.
So what am I thinking? I am going to use that flight to New Zealand, i’m going to see my friends and family, sort out my affairs, do some traditional work (too) in order to boost up my travel fund good and proper and then I’m going to bolt.
The next trip I take, I want it to be with the intention of relocating somewhere else. I want to LIVE overseas for a decent period of time, set up my own social group, have my own flat/apartment and get under the skin of the city I choose.
I have a few options in mind and I’d love any feedback on them. My plan is to be able to save, so I’m looking for somewhere on the cheaper side of things, bonus points if the native language is Spanish, though I’m considering hiring myself a Skype teacher so I can continue my Spanish anywhere.
Chiang Mai, Thailand – cheap, warm, good expat community, great food
Ubud, Bali, Indonesia – cheap, warm, awesome vibe, good expat community, amazing yoga barn
Buenos Aires, Argentina – never been, but I know I wold love this city, it’s a bit more expensive than the other places, but Spanish!
Costa Rica – formally an expat haven, they speak spanish, ideal climate, a good location for exploring more of central America
Somewhere, India – cheap, somewhere I would love to volunteer, great food
Mexico – cheap, great food, good climate, Spanish
La Paz, Bolivia – I’ve always been obsessed with visiting Bolivia, I don’t know why. I’d love to volunteer there, they speak Spanish, it seems to be a lot cheaper than Argentina and Chile
Berlin, Germany – I love Berlin, can apply for a freelance visa if my work is still solid by then, and it’s one of the coolest cities I’ve ever been to, but there’s no way I’m going anywhere near it until winter’s over.
So that’s my list of main contesters, if I’m missing anything, let me know! I’d love some suggestions. I don’t think I’ll be moving overseas for another 3-6 months, so I’ve got some time to build up some funds and make some plans.
In the mean time I’m off to Vienna next week, Croatia, Bulgaria and Turkey – it’s gonna be an intense few weeks, but the perfect way to say goodbye to two years of solid adventure.
(Here’s to the next two…)
Postcards from the Alhambra
When my friend and I were planning how to spend our time in Granada, we both knew that the Alhambra was a must see. I’d taken the time to do a little research on the Alhambra, and as far as I knew: you had to prebook tickets, needed a whole day to enjoy the grounds and it looked kind-of-ugly. Well, each of those turned out to be wrong in their own right. We, luckily, managed to get tickets that morning for the morning session. The map that they give you seems to be somewhat exaggerated and we found ourselves accidentally rushing through the entire complex in just over 2.5 hours. And most importantly: it was not ugly, in fact I commented numerous times on how not ugly it was (read: stunning, gorgeous, incredible, lovely and, of course, amazzzzzzing).
Something you definitely have to see at least once in your life.
The detail is incredible and actually reminds me a little of Angkor Wat and Borobudur.
Teach English in Europe
One of the questions I always get about my long-term travel is “How do you afford to travel so long?” – well, it’s a twofold answer. Firstly, when travel is your priority you’ll find yourself putting every spare penny towards it. You’ll start sacrificing materialistic things in order to save for your world trip. Secondly, you can always find a job overseas that allows you to live in a foreign country and to use it as a base to explore.
Europe is one of the best places to base yourself because there are such a great variety of countries nearby and it’s easy to plan exciting weekend trips away. If you’re looking to move overseas for a while, the first thing you’ll have to ask yourself is what kind of work you’d like to do. One of the most obvious job choices for native English speakers is teaching English overseas – it’s in high demand in almost every country.
Finding an English teaching job overseas can be intimidating, especially if it’s a field you haven’t worked in. The first thing you’ll need to figure out is whether you’re eligible to teach English in Europe. Usually as a minimum employers will want someone who is a native English speaker and someone who has at least an undergraduate degree (in English or Teaching is a definite bonus).
Do I need a TEFL to teach abroad?
If you are serious about teaching English overseas, you will find that obtaining a TEFL, Teaching English as a Foreign Language, certificate will increase your chances of landing a good job. TEFL, TESOL or CELTA are the most popular certificates you can obtain, but before you invest money and time into them, it is a good idea first to decide which country you would like to work in. Some positions would require this certification, but employers usually want experience teaching or certification.
Where can I Teach English in Europe?
At the moment there is a strong demand for English teachers in Spain, France, The United Kingdom and Georgia. I taught English in the Czech Republic for six months and really enjoyed the central location to explore the surrounding countries. After returning home for a brief stunt, I spent six weeks living in Madrid, Spain. For someone who is from such an isolated country, living in Europe is an incredible opportunity to explore surrounding countries and your new adopted country. Traveling to Europe doesn’t have to be expensive; you can find a lot of cheap Air Canada flights to get to Europe.
If you chose to teach English in France you would be bordering a number of interesting countries: Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Luxembourg, Belgium and Italy making it possible to spend weekends or holidays abroad without spending a fortune on flights. While it seems a bit unusual to move to the United Kingdom to teach English, many people from other countries move there in order to learn English so there is an abundance of jobs there. The UK would be the obvious choice for someone who wants to live overseas, but isn’t ready to commit to being immersed in a country where there might be a language barrier. Georgia is high on my travel list; I haven’t visited yet, but I have heard that it is an exceptionally beautiful country filled with the most hospitable and generous people. Maybe in future I will consider living there as it would be an incredible cultural experience.
Interested but not sure where to start?
Steps for securing an ESL job to teach English in Europe:
1) Narrow down the country/countries you are interested in working in
2) Browse TeacherHit for teaching jobs in Europe to decide what qualifications are required for your chosen country and to find current job listings for English teachers overseas
3) Do an online or in person TEFL, TESOL or CELTA course to improve your teaching skills
4) Start your individual job applications for the positions in the countries that interest you most
Beyond the bonus of being able to travel around a new country and continent, teaching English in Europe where it is not the native language gives you the opportunity to learn or improve a new language yourself. If you’re interested in learning Spanish, then Spain would be an obvious choice for a place to live and work for a year. On the same note, there would be no better place in the world to learn French, than in France, perhaps Paris or Nice – the options are endless! When I was living in Madrid I took an introductory Spanish course and found it really helpful. In future I’d love to move back to Spain to teach English and continue my Spanish learning.
Have you ever taught English overseas? Have you taught English in Europe? What was your experience like?
If you have any questions about teaching English in Europe feel free to post them below, I’m happy to help.
Gibraltar Rocks
Maybe that was a bit of a hyperbole, but it is cool.
We took a road trip from Rota, Spain, to Gibraltar. After finding a car park on the Spanish side, with barely a blink at our passports we casually walked across the border. The first hint that we were in another country? Tacky taxi vans with faded photos of the Queen’s Jubilee. The second sign? An abundance of public toilets, something Spain just doesn’t seem to understand.
It seems weird to base an entire country around a rock, but it is a pretty grand rock.
After walking through the centre we decided to take a little mini bus part way up to the top of Gibraltar. Instead of taking the cable car, which I had deemed too expensive, we clambered to the top of the caves, paying the 10 pound entry fee. I didn’t find the caves to be particularly exciting, perhaps if you were more knowledgable about history you would find them more interesting. I was holding out for the monkeys, perhaps the only motivation for me climbing up the hill. There was a beautiful view over Gibraltar and the tip of Spain.
Because Gibraltar is so small and space is so precious, the airport’s runway goes across a main road, completely closing it off when a plane is due to take off or land.
I made the mistake of assuming there would be water to buy near the caves, but there wasn’t. So we slowly dragged ourselves further up the rock, preserving the little water we had left in the extreme heat. By the time we made it to the cable car’s cafe, I’m certain all three of us were on the brink of heat exhaustion – not our finest hour.
The view were incredible and I got my cute monkey fix.
As the evening melted into sunset, we made our way to a beach where I tried to take a belated siesta (also known as a homeless nap on the beach).
I think a day trip was long enough to enjoy Gibraltar and I don’t feel a pressing need to return. Have you ever visited?
Men In Morocco
When you walk around the streets of Fes or Marrakech, you don’t see as many woman as men. When you do see woman, they’re usually covered from head to toe, sometimes so much as to only see their eyes peering through colourful scarves. It’s a conservative Muslim society, where from the outside woman don’t seem to have as many rights as men. It is surprising when you see tourists walking around in short shorts and tiny vests, complaining about the attention the men give them – I wonder what they expected. As a general rule, men in Morocco are much more conservative than their Western counterparts, and as such, you should dress accordingly.
So my travel friend and I decided to make a conscious effort to cover up, to be respectful of the locals so that we could command respect ourselves. We tried, despite sweltering temperatures sometimes exceeding 48 degrees, to keep from ankle to wrist covered in fabric. Still the attention came, but I think it was muted by our efforts. Rarely annoying, except one pesky ass-grab, we began to see the humor in the oddly worded “compliments” that were being thrown at us. Some highlights include:
Take care for your eyes
You smell good and have a good heart, so a good price for you
You have a Moroccan face
Five thousand camels for you
You are a lovely size
Best of the best
My absolute favourite:
I can’t give you a camel, but I’ll give you my heart.
Damn. I was really hoping for a camel, or two.
I think if you look on the bright side of the attention it’s absolutely hilarious. What’s the funniest thing you’ve been called overseas? In Thailand I was always called Marmite (a New Zealand/Australian breakfast spread)
A Good Complaint
How did I go from walking around a little expensive garden in Marrakech to being taken to a local Berber house in the Atlas mountains by a Moroccan man? It all started with a complaint.
I’d heard great things about Yves Saint Laurent’s gardens, Majorelle Garden. So my friend and I decided to venture to that side of town to check them out. Our guide book had suggested it would be 30 Dirhams, just shy of 3 euros – expensive for Morocco, but not too bad for lush gardens. Once again, the two year old book was way off, leading us to be disappointed again. For 50 Dirhams I knew that it was not a place that local Moroccans would visit and wondered if it was worthwhile. I asked some girls who were just leaving whether it was worth it and they couldn’t really say, but said it was very lovely.
“It’s so expensive” I said, in the general direction of some Moroccan men, but mostly to my friend. We decided after traveling to see the gardens, it would in fact be a shame not to see them. So we went in, walked around, and while it was lovely and quite beautiful we came to the conclusion I had suspected; it simply wasn’t worth the price.
We sat on a seat and decided to spend some time just enjoying the peaceful contrast to Marrakech, when eventually a man, Jamal, came up to us and asked whether it was worth the price we paid. We were frank and told him although the gardens were beautiful, we would never come again and never suggest out friends would too. Then I asked him a question, he hadn’t thought of before. I asked why the gardens weren’t a more reasonable price, one that the average Moroccan could afford? Shouldn’t they be able to enjoy their own gardens? He agreed and from that comment stemmed a conversation that stretched the edges of our culture.
I asked what he thought about all the tourists who were wearing skimpy clothing, short shorts and crop tops that showed off their bellies, and to my surprise he said it didn’t bother him too much. There was a line of course, where it became a little bit too much and a little too disrespectful, but for the most part he didn’t mind when tourists didn’t cover up. I was surprised, because the Moroccan woman I have seen have been covered from shoulder to toe, right down to the palms of their hands. I asked him what he thought about covering a woman’s face up so only her eyes are visible. It turns out the average Moroccan man isn’t so interested in that kind of dress anymore and often it’s the woman who has grown up that way who wants to follow her tradition.
As he was leaving the gardens, he gave me his email address and said if we were interested he would be happy to take us out to dinner later this evening. We decided to walk to a supermarket and a few minutes later he drove past asking if we wanted a ride, we obliged. He said he was going to do some business and would be traveling back the other way and could give us a lift back to the central square. Mid way through our walk back we heard tooting and saw his enthusiastic face in the car waiting to help us once again. He dropped us off and suggested we meet there again at 6.30pm that night for dinner.
And we did, and the dinner was nothing short of amazing. He ordered vegetarian things for us to try, as Ava is vegetarian and compared to the bland dinner we had the night previous, everything was so flavorsome and delicious. He told us that he was writing a book about himself that could only be released after his death. Intrigued, we asked him to tell us stories that would be included. He shared one that made our eyebrows raise involving a German man which he ended up staying with for two weeks. He stressed that he’s not rich, but travel is his absolute priority. He collects experiences, not things. He spent four years teaching French and Arabic in Japan and has really been all over.
Our dinner stretched out past 11, where tiredness crept in before we could have ever got bored and we decided to go home. He invited us the following day to join him on a trip to a Berber village and we did. I’ll write a blog post about that in a few days, but for now I just wanted to show how travel can be when you’re open. When Jamal first approach us about whether we were enjoying it, we could have easily answered his question and then brushed him off. When we were at dinner, I laughed at the simple fact that we were enjoying a dinner at a place we’d never known about because of a simple, passing, complaint. I also suggested that if complaining would bring me such great fortune, I should do it more often.
Maybe because you have more free time, or maybe because you’re more open, when you’re traveling these kind of experiences tend to happen more often. These deep insights into the lives of others, people you would have never met otherwise. I love meeting locals, it is one of the main reasons I travel and this experience was nothing short of wonderful.
Have you ever been invited into the life of a random on a trip? I’d love to hear more about it.
Travel Lessons
Morocco is almost entirely what I imagined, but in a way it’s very different too. Expectations are a tricky thing, especially when it comes to travel, because they can easily lead to disappointment. You spend so much time, energy and money when planning your adventure and all you can base your expectations off is reviews online, guidebooks and what people tell you about a place. Sometimes it’s spot on and sometimes it’s not. Dealing with disappointment on the road is really hard, but it’s important to get past it and make the most of your adventures.
As I’m really at the end of my travel money now, I’m cautious about money. I’m quite simply happier when travel is cheap. My trip to Morocco was part curiosity: a new country, continent and way of life. But if I’m honest there was a big part of me that picked it out because it’d be a good opportunity to slow down and save some money. I had heard it was really cheap from fellow travelers and read everywhere of bargain prices. So when I arrived at the train station in Tangier to find that the train ticket was over twice the price quoted, I felt deflated. 350 Dirham was a lot more than 160 Dirham and it just seemed to be a long line of things being more expensive than I planned. The ferry from Tarifa to Tangier was 36 Euros, we had read that it should be around 24 euros. We went to a supermarket in Tangier and paid more for groceries than we would expect to in Spain… what was going on here? What happened to my affordable adventure to Africa?
After an hour of feeling a bit sad that the prices had been so wrong, I finally clicked. After realising that yes, it is more expensive than I thought and yes it’s going to make my upcoming few weeks of travel a little more difficult. I finally realised that I am in AFRICA and tried to think of when I’ll next be here, which is probably at least a few years away. So, the cost of not enjoying this trip and not doing it properly will far outweigh the cost of dipping into my overdraft a little in the coming weeks, if I need to.
Today I was called a princess told that I “look like Lady Gagga” and that I have “beautiful eyes and a big ass” – they’re a bunch of charmers here. And there are snake charmers, too.
I think I’m going to slowly fall in love with the winding streets and bustling markets of Marrakech.
Have you been to Morocco? Where did you love? Suggestions, please!
What Are Hostels Like?
Before I went traveling I had never stayed in a hostel. I had the idea that a hostel was a seedy place to stay and the only time you’d choose one was when you couldn’t afford anything else. I imagined uncomfortable beds and dingy bathrooms. The idea of staying in a hostel was really unappealing, until I actually did and really enjoyed it. Now I recommend hostels to anyone who is planning travel. In some parts of the world they are not so practical, for example in smaller cities in Asia, such as Ubud, you’ll be much more likely to find guesthouses than hostels. So sometimes it is not possible to stay in a hostel, but when it is it can be a really great experience.
Hostels, like the tourism industry, are evolving. Particularly in modernized cities, you will be likely to find trendy and cool hostels. I’ve noticed that the difference between a high-end private room in a hostel and a low-cost room in a hotel is usually just the price tag. During my time in Lisbon I stayed at a really great hostel called Downtown Design Hostel and wanted to use it is an example to show you what hostels are really like.
Convenient Location:
Because hostels are almost always smaller than hotels, it’s much easier to put them in central locations. The Downtown Design Hostel is in the perfect location; most of the central tourist attractions were within walking distance, which in turn saves you money on the metro. But above and beyond that, there was an amazing view of Praça de D. Pedro IV one of Lisbon‘s most important squares. Not a bad view to enjoy while you’re sipping on your morning coffee.
Rooms:
When staying in a hostel it’s often possible to choose between a private room or a dormitory. When I was traveling in a group of four, sometimes we would book out a dormitory and it would be like our own private room. If you’re traveling in a couple, private rooms tend to be great value as for a few more euros/dollars per person, you can enjoy the comfort of your own room. If you feel like splashing out a little more, often you can find yourself with a private bathroom, too. If you’re traveling solo, sharing in a dormitory might be the best option for you, both in terms of cost, but also to meet new people. When I first started traveling I used to pick the largest dormitories available, not just because they’re usually the cheapest, but also because it meant I would be likely to meet the most people.
Kitchens:
Almost every hostel I’ve stayed in has had a kitchen. There have been a few exceptions, but I’d say around 90% of all the hostels well equipped with decent kitchens. They are usually stocked with at least the basic cookware and utensils. Often there is fridge and sometimes there are spices, oils and condiments; it varies widely between hostels. Having a kitchen means that you’re able to prepare easy, healthy and cheap meals while on the road.
Social Areas:
This is probably my favourite thing about hostels, is the fact that they encourage you to be social and to make friends. In order to achieve this, there’s usually an abundance of comfortable common areas to hang out in. Downtown Design Hostel in Lisbon had the most comfortable couch I’ve ever sat on, coupled with a giant tv (handy for watching the olympics) and a computer with internet for the guests to use. There were tables and chairs scattered around, too. When you’re traveling alone, these common areas can be seen as places of opportunity – you can meet new friends to travel with, or talk to different people about the places you’re going to get suggestions of what to do. This is probably one of the main reasons that I prefer a hostel over a hotel, because it is so much easier to meet new people.
Friendly Staff:
Because hostels are generally smaller businesses, it is not uncommon to have the owners actually working in the hostel. This leads to a really personal experience, because they go the extra mile to ensure you really enjoy your stay. Hostel staff generally tend to be younger people and sometimes fellow tourists are employed during the busier months to help out. This is really great because they are happy to give you their opinion on the best thing to do and the best places to eat. It’s much more personable than the service you get in an average hotel.
Who Stays In Hostels?
Really, it varies so much depending on the city or the particular hostel. But in the hostels I’ve stayed I’ve seen entire families with young children, old people, business people, couples, pregnant ladies, interns, and fellow backpackers. Families and business men tend to have their own rooms, but everyone else I’ve seen in dorms. Now that the standards of hostels are rising, I think there will be an increase in families who are taking advantage of their incredible value. The majority of people staying in hostels are still young backpackers, which is great if you’re looking to meet other backpackers.
Hostels are great value for money, so long as you make an effort to pick the right one for your needs. I always check out the reviews on the booking sites, just to read what other travelers are saying about it. When I was picking a hostel for Lisbon, I spent a bit of time reading the reviews and looking at the photos to ensure that I was picking the best hostel in Lisbon – and I ended up having a great stay. If you’re in Lisbon anytime soon, be sure to check it out.
Have you ever stayed in a hostel? If so, where has your favourite hostel been?
Magical Sintra
Travel in Europe is just different to Asia. Being a first world nation means we have all those comforts and luxuries we’re used to, clean water, flushing toilets, and a high standard of living. But with those conveniences, it seems we’ve constructed another thing; walls. I can’t decide whether it’s because people are too busy living their own chaotic lives, or whether it’s because developed worlds are just less friendly, but there are bigger walls between tourists and locals in Europe. It’s a lot harder to find yourself welcomed into their world, particularly in Western Europe.
One of my favourite things about travel is meeting locals. Although Europe has a lot of charms, history and amazing sights, I feel myself yearning for that openness and warmness that South East Asia presents you with. I’ve spent a lot of time in Europe, while loving it, “sort of” wishing I was in Asia. I guess I’m just missing those special people, with giant smiles, that welcomed me into their lives.
When I was in Lisbon I was riding a very busy tram, it was crowded and filled to the brim with tourists and a few locals. I had a comfortable seat, that had taken me a while to earn. A little old lady, who was maybe 70 or 80 got on the tram. I was shocked as she moved down the tram, no one got up to offer her a seat. So, as soon as she approached me I sprung up and offered her my seat. She thanked me with one of those entire-face-lit-up smiles. As she went to sit down, she gently pulled me in close and planted the biggest kiss on my cheek. It was a brief, but lovely, moment where I felt a little more connected to an actual Portuguese person (a rarity in Lisbon).
As I start planning my next adventures, for 2013, I’m going to work my plans around places where I imagine there are less barriers between people. I want to meet locals. I want to fumble in a foreign language. I want to share smiles and giggles with complete strangers. And above all, I want to see a little more of their world and in turn learn a little more about my (wider) world, too.
I spent a day in Sintra, just a short train ride out of Lisbon and it was absolutely charming. Little cobblestone streets, a beautiful old castle and it was very unpretentious. A day is probably long enough to enjoy Sintra, but it’s certainly worth a visit and the views from the hike up to the castle are really something special. I wasn’t supposed to be in Lisbon as long as I was, but it was so difficult to leave. The next time I’m in Europe I’ll definitely be dedicating a lot more time to Portugal, I’d love to explore both North and South of Lisbon, especially the beaches.
Now I’m back in Spain for a few days, before I embark on my adventure to Africa – I’m so excited!